Exploring Different Types of Silver and Silver Alloys from Around the World - Annika Rutlin

Exploring Different Types of Silver and Silver Alloys from Around the World
Not All Silver is the Same! A Sparkling World of Silvery Wonder

Think all silver is equal? Think again! Across the globe, silversmiths have been working their magic for centuries, creating unique alloys and traditions that make silver so much more than just a shiny metal. Think of it as silver with a regional accent – each piece tells a story not just of craftsmanship, but of culture. From super-pure fine silver to modern marvels of tarnish-resistant blends, every piece has its own story. Let’s journey through the dazzling world of silver in jewellery!

 

Cirque off square pendant on leather CP30PL - LE - Annika Rutlin

 

Fine Silver: The Purity Champ

Ah, fine silver! With a purity of 99.9% (that’s right, three nines fine), it’s as pure as it gets. Soft, luxurious, and malleable but not great for durability—it’s more at home in bullion bars or delicate, decorative pieces. It’s velvety, lovely, and just a little too precious for rough-and-tumble use.

  • Purity: 99.9% silver (Millesimal Fineness: 999)
  • Drawback: So soft that wear and tear is a problem, meaning it's not ideal for everyday wear jewellery.

UK Sterling Silver: A Timeless Classic

In the UK, they’re sticklers for the rules (no surprise there!), with sterling silver being the fineness of choice at 92.5% silver and a legal requirement to assay jewellery, over a certain weight. This standard is so reliable it’s practically the Queen’s stamp of approval. And yes, their hallmarking process is one of the strictest in the world.

  • Purity: 92.5% silver, 7.5% copper (Millesimal Fineness: 925)
  • Why It’s a Star: Sterling silver has been the backbone of British silverware and jewellery since the 12th century. The addition of copper gives it the perfect balance of strength and beauty, making it ideal for rings, necklaces, and every sparkling trinket in between.
  • Fun Fact: This added copper alloy makes sterling silver slightly harder than Argentium, making it easier for jewellers to shape, engrave, or apply detailed designs.
  • Hallmarks You’ll See: In the UK, hallmarking is no joke—it’s one of the strictest systems in the world, Look for stamps like the lion passant (the sterling mark), a town assay office mark, a maker's mark, and even a date letter to know your jewellery’s origins.

At Annika Rutlin, our varied range of sterling silver pieces are crafted with care and precision, displaying the London Assay Office Hallmark and showcasing the timeless beauty of this classic alloy. Explore our sterling silver designs here.


Britannia Silver: Sterling’s Lustrous Cousin

  • Purity: 95.8% silver, 4.2% other metals (Millesimal Fineness: 958)
  • What’s Special: With higher purity than sterling, Britannia silver gleams with an extra touch of brilliance. Commonly used in fine silverware, it’s a little softer but oh-so-shiny—a hallmark of British elegance since 1697.

Argentium Silver: The Modern Marvel

  • Purity: 93.5% silver with a dash of germanium (not copper!)
  • What’s Special: Tarnish-resistant, hypoallergenic, and low-maintenance. It’s perfect for those who want beauty without the constant need for polishing.
  • Cost: Germanium and the more specialized production process lead to Argentium silver being priced higher than standard sterling silver. Generally 20-30% more expensive depending on the market, the purity level (93.5% or 96%), and the supplier.
  • Challenges: The germanium makes it more brittle during certain techniques like soldering, which can pose challenges for complex jewellery designs.
  • Patina: Argentium’s tarnish resistance means it doesn’t develop the soft  patina generally associated with sterling silver, which some feel makes it lack "soul".

Note: For more info on silver tarnishing facts and solutions check out our Blog HERE.


Coin Silver: History in Your Hands

The good ol’ American way includes a dash of practicality with coin silver (90% silver), which was literally silver melted down from coins! How’s that for resourceful?

  • Purity: 90% silver, 10% copper
  • Fun Fact: Historically used for coins and later melted into jewellery or tableware, coin silver is harder than sterling and carries a touch of nostalgia. If you stumble upon antique American jewellery, chances are it’s made of this.

European Silver: Everyday Elegance

  • Purity: Common grades include 800 (80%) and 835 (83.5%)
  • What’s the Deal?: These harder alloys may not have the purity or sheen of sterling, but they are more durable. Perfect for functional jewellery and household items, European silver is practical and timeless, with a rich history of use across the continent.
  • Note: As sterling silver (92.5% silver) is the global standard, especially in countries like the UK and the USA, contemporary designers and European jewellers producing pieces for export often use sterling silver to meet international demand and expectations.

French Silver: Chic and Historic

Over in France, they have not one, but two silver standards. Fancy, right?

  • 1st Standard: 950, 95% pure
  • 2nd Standard: 800, 80% pure
  • Fun Fact: Since 1797, French silver has been marked with Minerva’s head, symbolizing artistry and craftsmanship—because why wouldn’t a Roman goddess approve their silver? The hallmark includes a "1" or "2" to denote its standard—either way, it’s très magnifique!

German Silver: Real vs. Pretender

  • The Real Thing: True German silver is 800–835 purity, marked with the crescent moon and crown since 1886. Look for older city marks like Vienna’s "A" if you’re hunting pre-1836 pieces.
  • The Faux German Silver: Nickel silver, aka alpaca silver, contains no silver at all—it’s a mix of copper, nickel, and zinc. Perfect for plating but not for those with nickel allergies!

Mexican Silver: Bold and Beautiful

  • Purity: Frequently exceeds 925, with 940 or 980 being common
  • Why It’s Unique: Mexican silver is marked by its bold designs and exceptional purity. Whether it’s Taxco’s artistic flair or antique pieces stamped with "980," this silver is as vibrant as its culture.

Thai Silver: A Craftsmanship Story

Thai silver is more than just an alloy—it’s an art form. Known for its traditional techniques, Thai silver comes in purities from 925 to 999.

  • Hill Tribe Silver is especially renowned, with purity levels of 97.5% to 99%. Softer and more tarnish-resistant, it’s a favourite for intricate, handcrafted designs.
  • Siam Sterling: Vintage Thai jewellery from the mid-20th century often features enamel work and a 92.5% silver content, blending heritage with beauty.

Russian Silver; Fineness measured in zolotniks

  • Common Fineness: 84 zolotniks (875/1000 standard)
  • Other Finenesses:
    • 91 zolotnik: 94.79% pure silver
    • 88 zolotnik: 91.66% pure silver
    • 96 zolotnik: Pure silver

The zolotnik was used in Russia as early as the 11th century to measure the weight of gold coins. It was originally 1/96 of a pound, but was later changed to 1/72 of a pound.


Other Notable Silver Traditions

  • Japanese Silver: While modern Japanese jewellery is often sterling, traditional silver is often close to 100% pure, hallmarked with "jungin" (pure silver), and revered for its artistry.
  • Chinese Silver: Often made with a lower silver content than sterling silver, usually around 90% or less. The People’s Republic of China also issues silver coins called the Chinese Silver Panda. These coins are 99.9% fine silver and are legal tender in China. The design of the panda changes each year, and the coins are minted in different sizes and denominations.
  • Iranian Silver: Uses the Russian "84" mark, equivalent to 875 fineness—a nod to shared craftsmanship traditions.
  • Australian Silver: Usually 925, early silversmiths imitated English hallmarks, but since 1988, a voluntary system includes maker’s marks, guild marks, and date letters.
  • Egyptian Silver: Doesn’t have a standardized fineness as strict as sterling silver. Purity typically ranges around 90% silver (900), though higher purities, like 925 (sterling silver) or 950, are used in fine jewellery.

A Quick Word on Junk Silver and Silver-Plated Items

  • Junk Silver: Coins with no collectible value but high silver content—perfect for small silver investments.
  • Plated Silver: A thin layer of silver over base metals. Pretty, but not an investment—look for stamps like EPNS to spot it and be aware of fakes.

Avoiding Fakes: A Word of Warning!

  • Purchase from Trusted Sellers: Always buy from reputable jewellers or brands like Annika Rutlin, known for genuine, high-quality craftsmanship.
  • Check for Hallmarks and Certifications: Authentic pieces should include proper stamps indicating the metal's purity and origin.
  • Research Pricing: If a deal seems too good to be true, it likely is. Precious metals have a market value, and genuine items are priced accordingly.

We hope we have provided you with a better overview of silver in it's many forms.

To discover the secrets to caring for and keeping your silver jewellery in tip top condition visit our Blog HERE

Next time you slip on a silver necklace or admire a pair of shiny earrings, remember—you’re wearing a little piece of history, artistry, and global tradition.

At Annika Rutlin, we craft each design in solid sterling with these stories in mind, ensuring that your jewellery is not just a piece of silver—it’s a piece of art. Sparkle on! ✨

Annika Rutlin designer jewellery in sterling silver

Annika

www.annikarutlin.com

info@annikarutlin.com

+44(0)1273 583485

 

 

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Meet the Author

Jeweller designer and maker Annika Rutlin has over 30 years at the bench and a wealth of experience creating customer's dream pieces. Her designs are guided by a unique sense of balance and proportion.

Goddess Tara articulated 'Goddess' multi chain necklace WTN51

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